When I stroll through the centro storico in Rome, its streets filled with ancient palazzi and their huge wooden doors, I like to think about what’s behind the doors, and who owns and lives in these frescoed buildings. During the day these doors are often open and you can gaze in upon exquisite courtyards with…
When in Rome
Christmas Season in Rome 2015
Here are a few pictures of Rome during the Christmas 2015 season. Nothing lifts the spirit more than shimmering Christmas lights, beautifully decorated Christmas trees, lovely shops and gorgeously packaged panettoni and other holiday treats! Piazza Venezia… The iconic Hassler Hotel at the top of the Spanish steps… Via del Babuino… These boxed panettoni are…
The Trevi Fountain got a clean-up
National Geographic Traveler’s October 2015 article “101 Reasons to Travel Now” wisely featured “Spiffier Rome: The Pyramid, the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain and Domus Aurea (Emperor Nero’s villa) all show off much needed-and tasteful-touch-ups. Next: the Spanish Steps” as 21st on its list… an absolute must! November 2015 the Trevi fountain reopened in full splendor! Just…
Eating in Ponte Milvio
An old rusty bicycle becomes a perfect prop for baskets of flowers. I saw this at a restaurant in Ponte Milvio, in north Rome and was charmed by it. Often what is old and rusty and no longer of utilitarian value takes on a new function of beauty. Old wheelbarrows, old shutters and doors, and…
The Arrotino or Knife Sharpener
This special bicycle was used by the arrotino to sharpen knives, throughout neighborhoods in Rome. The box on the front carries the tools of the trade, and the stone disk (center of the bike) is the sharpening device, powered by the arrotino’s bicycle pedals. I used to love seeing the arrotino in our neighborhood, but…
Day Trip to Lake Bolsena for a fish lunch
Last weekend we were at Lake Bolsena, an under two hours drive from us. We were there with friends: and others who vacation at the lake regularly; sailing, canoeing, swimming. Fish is my favorite food and it’s a pleasure to occasionally indulge in lake fish. The best that Lake Bolsena has to offer is coregone,…
Lunch at Roscioli, Dessert at Roscioli Bakery
Lunch at Roscioli, Dessert at Roscioli Bakery Thelma returned last night from Turkey and Annie from Washington, so my lunch buddies and I convened once again for a plunge into Roman cuisine at its best: Roscioli. We were four so we split an assortment of classic Roman pasta dishes: cacio e pepe, spaghetti alla carbonara…
Sunday lunch at L’Ovile Restaurant
The plan when we went out this morning to run a few errands was to come right back home to make a light lunch. Our errands took us right past the Ovile Restaurant and it immediately triggered an almost primal desire for some hearty Roman comfort food. For me that spells pasta all’amatriciana. Errands finished…
Polenta and Pangiallo festival in Riano
A beautiful and brisk, and very windy 7C Sunday is the perfect kind of a day for the heartiest of Italian comfort foods: polenta. We’re one of the smaller towns immediately north of Rome; our tiny historic center is composed of two streets that meet at a small piazza where the polenta festival took place….
Rome’s best gelato, artisanally made by master gelataio Claudio Torcé
There’s gelato, and there’s gelato….and then there’s Claudio Torcé‘s gelato. Everyone who visits Rome wants to try a great gelato, and there are so many gelaterie out there (hundreds) that the unknowing traveler can easily stumble upon bad gelato. It’s easy to weed out the gelaterie displaying puffy, whipped products in unnatural colors. Claudio Torcé’s…
Crema di Caffè
Crema di Caffè. Served in a small cup, not much larger than an espresso cup. It’s almost like a soft ice cream, and each coffee bar makes its own. This one, in Sacrofano north of Rome, was delightful. A blend of espresso, milk, cream and sugar freshly made and constantly churning to maintain its delicious…
Osteria
This centro storico restaurant’s simple and spartan ambiance is what makes it elegant. For example, the lighting: bulbs on wires hanging in staggered arrangement from the ceiling.