A Suggested Itinerary for the Jubilee Year
Rome is a city of unparalleled history, where every cobblestone whispers tales of the past. As the Eternal City gears up for the 2025 Jubilee Year, it’s already brimming with visitors. But amidst the grandeur of St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican, there lies another Rome—a quieter, more spiritual side that echoes the city’s earliest Christian heritage. In a recent podcast interview, I had the pleasure of chatting with David Laskin, a renowned author and NYT travel journalist, about his suggested itinerary to explore five of Rome’s oldest churches. These hidden gems offer a peaceful respite from the bustling crowds while immersing visitors in the city’s rich Paleo-Christian history.
This itinerary not only highlights these historic churches in Rome but also pairs them with nearby eateries recommended by David, along with a few additional suggestions for those wanting to explore further. Let’s dive into David’s recommendations.

1. Santa Sabina on the Aventine Hill, one of Rome's oldest churches
Santa Sabina is a stunning example of early Christian architecture and one of David’s favorite churches in Rome. Built in the 5th century, it has retained much of its original structure. The church’s simple yet majestic basilica design, with its long nave and apse, creates an atmosphere of serene beauty. Don’t miss the intricately carved wooden doors, which depict some of the earliest Christian iconography.
David’s Recommendation: David recommends the nearby festive restaurant cum cocktail bar, Marco Martini, for an aperitivo after visiting the church.
Additional Recommendation: The Testaccio district isn’t far and offers gems like the Testaccio Market or Flavio al Velavevodetto, a trattoria known for its classic Roman pastas.
2. Santa Maria Maggiore, one of Rome's oldest churches
Located near Piazza Vittorio, Santa Maria Maggiore is one of Rome’s major basilicas and an iconic example of early Christian art and architecture. Its 4th-century origins are evident in the stunning mosaics that adorn its interior, including the nave and triumphal arch. These mosaics, depicting biblical scenes, are among the oldest in Rome and a testament to the city’s transition from paganism to Christianity.
David’s Recommendation: David highlighted Pho Vet for a tasty Vietnamese meal.
Additional Recommendations: Trattoria Monti is a favorite eatery near Santa Maria Maggiore. Known for its family-style dishes, it’s a perfect spot for a cozy meal.
Or explore the vibrant Mercato Esquilino area for a taste of local produce, baked goods and international foods.
3. Santa Pudenziana
This humble yet historically significant church is home to what is believed to be the oldest Christian mosaic in Rome. The mosaic, located in the apse, depicts Christ enthroned among his apostles. Santa Pudenziana offers a deeply spiritual experience, tucked away from the more touristy parts of the city.
4. San Paolo Fuori le Mura (St. Paul Outside the Walls)
Another of Rome's oldest churches, though reconstructed after a devastating fire in the 19th century, San Paolo Fuori le Mura is a magnificent basilica that closely resembles its original 4th-century design. It’s one of the four major papal basilicas and a peaceful retreat outside the city center. The cloister and courtyard, with their ancient columns and mosaics, are particularly enchanting.
David’s Recommendation: For a meal nearby, David suggests heading to Al Biondo Tevere, a historic restaurant with a charming terrace overlooking the Tiber River. It’s a classic Roman spot beloved by locals, including past famous figures like Pier Paolo Pasolini and Luchino Visconti.
5. Santo Stefano Rotondo
Santo Stefano Rotondo stands out for its unique circular design, inspired by ancient Roman mausoleums and martyria. Built in the 5th century, this church offers a hauntingly beautiful glimpse into early Christian worship. Its frescoes depict the gruesome martyrdom of saints, a stark reminder of the sacrifices made during the rise of Christianity.
David’s Recommendation: Stroll through the Orange Garden and then a pleasant 10 minute walk away you'll come upon Contrario Vineria con Cucina, a charming wine bar perfect for a relaxed meal or a drink.
Tips for Exploring Rome During the Jubilee Year
David Laskin and I both agree: navigating Rome during the Jubilee Year requires strategy. Here are a few tips:
- Go Early or Late: Start your day at dawn to experience iconic sites like Piazza Navona or the Trevi Fountain without the crowds. Alternatively, explore late in the evening when the city takes on a magical glow.
- Avoid the Obvious: While St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican are must-sees, consider saving them for a less crowded year if possible. Instead, focus on the lesser-known among Rome's oldest churches, and neighborhoods.
- Pair Culture with Cuisine: Plan your day around both spiritual and culinary stops. Rome’s food is as much a part of its history as its art and architecture.
- Discover Hidden Gems: Explore museums like Centrale Montemartini, where classical statues are displayed amidst industrial equipment, or stroll through quieter neighborhoods like Garbatella.
Rome’s Eternal Charm
Rome, as David eloquently put it, is the Eternal City eternally changing. Its layers of history and culture make it a destination that never ceases to inspire. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler, these Paleo-Christian churches offer a glimpse into the city’s spiritual and architectural origins while providing a peaceful escape from the Jubilee crowds.
So, pack your walking shoes and your appetite, and embark on this journey through Rome’s oldest churches. Your soul—and your taste buds—will thank you.
Share Your Experience! Have you visited any of these historic churches? Or do you have a favorite hidden gem in Rome? Share your thoughts in the comments below or tag me on Instagram. Let’s keep the conversation going about the wonders of Rome!
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