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    February 16, 2019

    Subiaco day trip from Rome

    If you're looking for a day trip out of Rome where you can find an oasis of peace immersed in spectacular natural beauty, yet rich with Italian history, art and culture then a Subiaco day trip from Rome is a perfect choice.

    Subiaco is located about an hour and a half southeast of Rome in the upper Aniene Valley and is easily reachable by car or bus. The oldest part of the town is medieval with homes built around a huge impressive rocca, and full of small, winding streets. The lower part of Subiaco was built towards the end of the 18th century.

    Subiaco-Lazio town entrance

    The economy of Subiaco is based on agriculture activities, primarily the cultivation of olives and grapes for wine making. There are also a number of artisans with woodworking and iron working shops. The area attracts a large tourist trade mainly due to the extraordinary monasteries located just above Subiaco. The two monasteries are dedicated to St. Scholastica and her twin brother St. Benedict.
    Towards the end of the fifth century Benedict, a young man from Norcia in Umbria who was disillusioned with his studies, chose instead to live as a hermit in a cave (the Sacro Speco) in the upper Aniene Valley. This holy cave was the beginning of what would become an impressive Benedictine monastery.
    During his three years living as a hermit St. Benedict's reputation spread throughout the area. Local shepherds would lower food down to Benedict into the Sacro Speco. Eventually Benedict was invited to become the abbot of a local monastery in Vicovaro. It was at this time that Benedict developed and transcribed his ideas on how a true Christian should live. These ideas became known as the Rule of St. Benedict, and governed the way Benedictine monks should live their lives. In 529, after 20 years in Subiaco, St. Benedict moved on to head south towards Cassino where he established the renowned Monte Cassino monastery. St. Benedict died on March 21, 547.
    St. Benedict lived his life in a number of spiritual locations, along with his sister Scholastica, and monasteries were established in each of these areas. For this reason Benedict was named the patron saint of Europe by Pope Paul the sixth in 1964.
    St. Benedict's monastery in Subiaco is embedded into the rocky mountainside of Mount Taleo, with a spectacular view of the Aniene Valley.

    Saint Benedict Monastery in Subiaco

    The monastery is composed of two churches, one above the other. There are also numerous small chapels that follow along the windy passageways of the rocky wall into which the monastery is embedded.


    When you visit the monastery a good starting point is the small, delightful rose garden.

    Saint Benedict Monastery Rose Garden Subiaco

    Supposedly during the time of St. Benedict there were thorns instead of roses in the garden and Benedict would punish himself with the thorns when he had unholy thoughts. When St. Francis of Assisi visited the monastery in 1223 he transformed the garden into a rose garden.

    Rose from the Saint Benedict Monastery Rose Garden in Subiaco


    The lower church houses the spiritual core of the monastery: the Sacro Speco, or Holy Cave, where Benedetto lived his three years as a hermit in the V century.

    Among the numerous splendid frescoes that decorate the monastery walls is the oldest portrait in existence of Saint Francis of Assisi. His pilgrimage brought him to Subiaco in 1223. In this painting he's portrayed without the halo that you see in future portraits, similar to the one to the left of the painting that the monk is holding up for comparison. St. Francis is holding a document with the words “Peace to this house”. The fresco portrait was painted by a local, unknown Subiaco painter. He signed the painting using the method of the day: a tiny self-portrait located in the bottom left corner of the painting.

    Portrait of Saint Francis Monastery Saint Benedict Subiaco


    In the ancient refectory there’s another spectacular fresco: a recently restored Last Supper, dating back to the 1300’s.

    Saint Benedict Monastery Subiaco Last Supper painting


    The monastery was built up over many centuries and finally completed in 1243. Its bell tower dates back to 1053. The entire monastery is full of splendid medieval paintings and frescoes from the 13th and 14th centuries.

    The most sacred part of the monastery is located in a chapel on the left side of the lower church, where the Sacro Speco is located. Here you’ll find a marble sculpture of St. Benedict, by Antonio Raji, a disciple of Bernini.

    Saint Benedict Monastery Subiaco Sacro Speco sculpture of Saint Benedict by Bernini disciple Antonio Raji

    The statue was carved in white Carrara marble but one foot is gold. The gold metal covering was placed on the marble foot to protect it as over the years the constant touch of each pilgrim who passed by was wearing away the marble.

    The St. Scholastica monastery is a two-mile walk downhill from St. Benedict's monastery. As you descend the hill following a number of winding turns you'll encounter interesting antiquities, including several chapels and the ruins of one of Nero's villas. After you pass Nero’s villa you see the St. Scholastica monastery to your left. This is one of the 12 monasteries St. Benedict built for his disciples.


    The oldest part of the St. Scholastica monastery is near the bell-tower and the elongated part of the building was added in the 17th century. The monastery also has a hostel and restaurant for pilgrims, and three cloisters and the church.

    Saint Scholastica Monastery Hostel Subiaco


    This monastery is notable because it contains a library with originals of the very first books ever printed in Italy. The printing press was set up in the 1400's by two German ecclesiastics. At the time many spiritual works were printed, along with a grammar book for children. After some years the printing press was moved to the Palazzo Massimo in Rome.
    The St. Scholastica monastery is a mixture of different architectural styles: an 11th century Romanesque belltower, a 10th-century church that was redesigned in Gothic style in the 14th century. The inside of the church was completely renovated by Giacomo Quarenghi. The church interior has a stark and unusual look because of the unique style used to paint the frescoes. Normally one expects to see bright and colorful frescoes but, apart from the ceiling fresco, these are black and white and use what was known as a grissaio style.

    Saint Scholastica Monastery Subiaco grissaio style fresco
    Saint Scholastica Monastery pastries Subiaco


    The restaurant within the St. Scholastica complex prepares casareccio, country-style meals for visitors. Francesca, the delightful woman who works in the restaurant, bakes dozens upon dozens of delicious cakes and cookies daily which you’ll find for sale. She spends about fifteen hours a day baking and packaging these goodies. She also makes a variety of jams which you can also purchase.
    Here, and at the St. Benedict monastery, you can also purchase wonderful items including delicious liqueurs using the monks’ centuries old recipes.

    Saint Benedict Monastery Liqueurs Subiaco made with wild fennel blossoms


    Both monasteries are easily reachable by car and if you prefer to make the Subiaco day trip from Rome by public transportation that’s possible too. Take the Rome metro line B to the Ponte Mammolo stop. From here you can get a bus to Piazza Falcone in Subiaco. Buses run all day long, (every 15 - 30 minutes depending on the time of day) beginning at 4:30 am until 8:30 pm. You can purchase a ticket at the Ponte Mammolo station (€4.30) or on board the bus (€7.00). It’s a good idea to purchase a round trip ticket at Ponte Mammolo so you don’t have to worry about it when you’re ready to leave Subiaco.
    Getting to the monasteries is another story. To reach the upper monastery (St. Benedict) it’s about a 4 kilometer steep walk uphill that will take just under an hour. It’s a gorgeous walk but strenuous.
    One option is to take a taxi up to the monasteries. Otherwise there are public transportation options.

    Would you like to read more about Saint Benedict?

    Or try this book for an in depth history of Subiaco.

    One of my favorite gifts for friends and family are prints of places I've visited in Italy. This is a lovely print of Subiaco.

    Here are some other day trips from Rome:

    Pin this!.....

    A Day Trip to Subiaco from Rome is one of the most gorgeous spots you can imagine:full off beauty and rich with history!

    And Pin this!.....

    Subiaco is a splendid Day Trip from Rome that will immerse you in natural beauty and rich history dating back centuries!

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    Reader Interactions

    Comments

    1. Belinda says

      September 02, 2023 at 12:32 pm

      Good afternoon
      I would like to enquire about a day trip from Rome to Subiaco. My sister + I will be available on Sunday 10 th September
      We would like to visit St Benedict’s cave+ his Monastery
      Can you please let me know the return cust+ if this is available.
      Many thanks
      Belinda

      Reply
      • Wendy says

        September 20, 2023 at 4:18 pm

        I hope you were able to visit Subiaco! This is not a tour we offer, but all the information necessary to visit Subiaco is right there within my post!

        Reply
    2. vincent paganelli says

      January 10, 2020 at 9:54 pm

      Want to book this Subiaco day trip for the 21st of january.
      Please reach me by return email or cell 0015165088419.
      Thankyou
      Vincent Paganelli

      Reply
      • Wendy says

        January 12, 2020 at 1:58 pm

        It would be a pleasure Vincent! I sent a proposal for a private tour to your email address.

        Reply

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    I’m American and I’ve lived in Italy for nearly four decades with my Italian family. My passion and strength lies in sharing Italian stories, recipes and unique travel insights on my blog, my Flavor of Italy trips and tours, newsletter and podcast. Continue Reading...

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