Ansonica: A Rare Grape Thriving on 3 Italian Islands

Ansonica, or as it’s known in Sicily, Inzolia, is a unique and versatile white grape that thrives on three Italian islands: Sicily, Giglio, and Elba. This ancient grape has captivated wine lovers with its distinctive qualities, offering a rich spectrum of flavors that range from crisp and refreshing to deep and complex. Let's delve into the fascinating world of Ansonica, exploring its history, winemaking styles, and perfect pairings, as shared in my recent conversation with sommelier Cynthia Chaplin.

Ansonica grapes — https://cesarescarfo.com/

Ansonica: A Grape Rooted in Mediterranean History

Ansonica’s journey to Italy traces back thousands of years, brought over by the Greeks during their colonization of the Mediterranean. It has long been cultivated on the island of Sicily, where it is still known as Inzolia, and later found a second home on the Tuscan islands of Giglio and Elba. What makes this grape so special is its thick skin, which not only protects it from disease and harsh weather but also gives the wine a unique tannic character, something rarely found in white wines. This trait allows Ansonica to produce wines with a slightly chalky texture and a phenolic grip, adding complexity to every sip.

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Ansonica - A Grape for Every Style: From Crisp Whites to Rich Orange Wines

Ansonica’s versatility is one of its most exciting features. As Cynthia Chaplin explains, it can be crafted into a variety of wine styles, each offering a unique experience. On the mainland, particularly in Tuscany, Ansonica is often made into a bright, crisp white wine, perfect for pairing with seafood and light pasta dishes. In Sicily, it plays a key role in the production of Marsala, a fortified wine beloved for its sweet, nutty, and rich character.

One of the more intriguing styles of Ansonica is the orange wine, made by allowing the grape skins to remain in contact with the juice during fermentation. This results in a deep amber color and imparts a rich, textured mouthfeel with layers of flavor. Despite its bold appearance, the wine is wonderfully balanced and pairs well with grilled fish and heartier seafood dishes. As Cynthia points out, Ansonica’s tannic structure and ability to retain salinity make it an exceptional match for seafood, which is abundant on the islands where the grape thrives.

Ansonica's Near Extinction on Giglio and Elba

Though Ansonica continues to thrive in Sicily, its story on the Tuscan islands of Giglio and Elba is one of near extinction. After World War II, many vineyards were destroyed or replanted with more popular international varieties, such as Chardonnay. Ansonica, facing competition from these other grapes, was almost lost. However, one winemaker on Giglio helped bring the grape back from the brink by cultivating a small vineyard and raising awareness of its unique qualities. Thanks to his efforts, Ansonica is now once again celebrated on both Giglio and Elba, where its limited production is cherished by wine connoisseurs.

Heroic Ansonica Winemaking on Steep Island Terraces

One of the most fascinating aspects of Ansonica’s cultivation on Giglio and Elba is the so-called "heroic" winemaking required. The vineyards are located on steep, terraced hillsides, where the grapevines are exposed to full sunshine and cool sea breezes. These conditions are ideal for Ansonica, helping to maintain a balance between ripeness and freshness. However, the challenging terrain means that all vineyard work, from planting to harvesting, must be done by hand. Cynthia Chaplin describes this process as nothing short of heroic, with local winemakers embracing the labor-intensive task to produce a wine that perfectly reflects its rugged, coastal environment.

"Heroic" wine making on Giglio — maregiglio.com

Marsala: Ansonica’s Role in Sicily’s Famous Fortified Wine

Ansonica plays a crucial role in the production of Marsala, the famed fortified wine from Sicily. Marsala takes its name from the coastal town where it was first made, and the wine was "discovered" by British trader John Woodhouse in the late 18th century. Ansonica grapes contribute to Marsala’s signature flavors of dried fruit, nuts, and caramel, with its naturally high sugar content making it perfect for sweet, fortified styles. Ansonica-based Marsala is often fortified with brandy made from the same grape, adding even more depth and complexity to the wine.

Perfect Pairings: Ansonica with Food

One of the joys of Ansonica is its versatility when it comes to food pairings. Whether made as a crisp, dry white or a rich orange wine, Ansonica complements a wide range of dishes. The lighter, stainless steel-fermented versions are ideal for pairing with seafood, especially delicate dishes like steamed fish or light pasta with shellfish. The saline notes and rich golden apple flavors add a delightful brininess to these pairings.

For heartier fare, such as grilled or roasted fish, the orange wine version of Ansonica is a perfect match. Its bold, unctuous texture stands up to stronger flavors, and the tannic structure complements the slight bitterness of grilled meats or vegetables. Cynthia Chaplin also suggests pairing Ansonica with dishes that have herbal or briny components, such as artichokes or dishes flavored with capers, as the wine’s natural salinity enhances these flavors beautifully.

Where to Find Ansonica

For wine enthusiasts outside Italy, finding Ansonica can be a challenge, but it’s not impossible. While the Ansonica from Giglio and Elba is produced in small quantities, the Sicilian version, Inzolia, is more widely available. Notable producers like Donnafugata and Cusumano export their Inzolia wines, offering a taste of this ancient grape to wine lovers worldwide. If you’re lucky enough to visit Italy, be sure to seek out Ansonica from Giglio or Elba for a truly unique experience.

Final Thoughts: Ansonica, A True Island Treasure

Ansonica is more than just a wine; It embodies the resilience of tradition and the beauty of winemaking in some of Italy’s most stunning island landscapes. Whether you’re enjoying a crisp white on a sunny afternoon or savoring the depth of an orange wine at dinner, Ansonica offers an unforgettable experience that transports you to the coasts of Sicily, Giglio, and Elba with every sip.