and San Martino in Pensilis a hilltop hidden treasure
Imagine a charming hill town in the smallest and often overlooked region of Italy—Molise. Nestled on a hilltop with breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea and the snow-capped Miela mountains, San Martino in Pensilis is a hidden treasure where time moves slower, life feels fuller, and history runs deep. Karren Urben and her husband Charlie made this idyllic town their home, a decision that changed their lives forever.
A Friendship That Set the Journey in Motion
Karren's story begins with an unexpected friendship. Over 18 years ago, Karren and Charlie were living in Brighton, England, when they opened their home to students, offering a spare bedroom for extra income. One day, Rosa Di Matteo, a schoolteacher from Molise, arrived at their door, and an immediate bond formed. Their friendship lasted through the years, even as Karren and Rosa temporarily lost touch. Eventually, Rosa reentered their lives, but this time, she would unknowingly set Karren and Charlie on a life-changing path.
Fast forward to 2019: Karren’s brother had moved to Abruzzo, the neighboring region to Molise. Molise and Abruzzo were once united until their separation in 1963, but the connection remains strong. When Karren visited her brother, Rosa invited her and her family for lunch in San Martino in Pensilis. During this visit, Karren had a life-altering moment. “If you really wanted to live in Italy, I would live here,” she casually told Charlie. And just like that, the seeds of a new adventure were planted.
Living the Italian Dream
Karren’s journey from visitor to resident of San Martino in Pensilis is detailed in her book, Living the Italian Dream: Discovering Molise. In this easy-to-read travel memoir, Karren recounts the trip that inspired their move, offering a glimpse into her initial encounters with the region’s people, food, and landscapes. The sequel, Moving to Molise, promises a deeper dive into the realities of building a home in a foreign country, the challenges and rewards of rural Italian life, and the couple’s enduring love for their adopted home.
For Karren and Charlie, this move was more than a change of scenery—it was a return to a simpler, more connected way of life. They now live in a house they built on an olive grove, surrounded by over 120 olive trees, and produce their own organic olive oil. Their journey is proof that sometimes, life presents unexpected opportunities, and following them can lead to extraordinary outcomes.
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Leave a CommentA Deep Connection to Molise
San Martino in Pensilis isn’t just a picturesque Italian town—it’s a place where Karren and Charlie found their forever home. Their strong ties to the area are twofold: Karren’s brother lives nearby in Abruzzo, and Rosa and her family, including her beloved "Mama," have become like family. These connections, alongside the region’s untouched beauty, sealed the deal.
While San Martino in Pensilis is a small town, it offers the best of both worlds. Just a short drive from the stunning sandy beaches of Campomarino Lido and a stone’s throw from the bustling town of Termoli, Karren and Charlie enjoy the tranquility of rural life without sacrificing the conveniences of modern living. Their home also boasts panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea, stretching all the way to the Tremiti Islands and the hills of Puglia.
For travelers looking to experience authentic Italian life, Karren’s bed and breakfast, Casa Phoenix, offers a perfect escape. Guests can enjoy private terraces with sea views, an above-ground pool, and a peaceful retreat in the heart of Molise. However, Karren does have one caveat—if you're not a dog lover, this might not be the place for you, as their three furry companions are an integral part of the family!
The Traditions of San Martino in Pensilis
Molise is a region steeped in history and tradition, and San Martino in Pensilis is no exception. One of the town’s most famous events is the Carrese, an ancient ox cart race held every April 30th. The tradition dates back to a legend that claims the bones of San Leo, the town’s patron saint, were found by oxen who refused to move further after discovering the remains. Today, the race celebrates this legend, with teams competing for the honor of carrying San Leo's remains around the town.
Another local specialty is Pampanella, a delicious pork dish flavored with sweet or spicy peppers. This traditional Molise cuisine originated in San Martino and can be enjoyed in one of the town’s four Pampanella shops. If you're looking for a taste of authentic local food, Karren recommends the atmospheric Al Castello restaurant, where the meat is cooked fresh over an open wood-burning fire.
Address: Piazza della Vittoria, 23, San Martino in Pensilis - Phone: +39 0875 604902
A Bright Future: Art and Olive Groves
Karren is also an accomplished painter, and she is eager to share her love for art with others. Soon, she will be offering painting workshops at Casa Phoenix, where guests can paint in the olive grove, overlooking the mountains and sea. Whether you're an experienced artist or a beginner, these workshops provide a unique opportunity to create art in one of the most beautiful settings imaginable.
For those interested in following Karren's art journey, you can explore her work at Karren Urben Paintings and learn more about her upcoming workshops at Casa Phoenix.
Molise Awaits
If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path Italian experience, Molise and San Martino in Pensilis should be at the top of your list. With its rich traditions, breathtaking landscapes, and warm, welcoming people, it’s no wonder that Karren and Charlie chose to call this hidden gem home.
Plan your visit to Molise and experience the magic of this overlooked region for yourself! Start your journey by booking a stay at Casa Phoenix. Whether you’re savoring their homemade olive oil, taking in the panoramic sea views, or joining one of Karren’s painting workshops, you’ll discover a side of Italy that few have the pleasure to know.
Find Karren on Facebook and Instagram.
More about Molise!
Molise Region Food & Wine Guide - 5 must-try foods
Molise Wine
Molise, Italy's Magic Region
Artisanal Organic Cheese in Molise
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