Exploring the Valtènesi Lake Garda Wine Region

A Hidden Gem of Northern Italy

Last week, five Italy-focused Substackers came together to participate in the Grubstack Virtual Food Festival. Our theme was "Italy for Food Lovers: A Deep Dive", where we shared recipes, food ideas, and inspiration, along with some Italy travel tidbits and insights. It was a fantastic and fun event! If you missed it, I encourage you to check out our two live sessions through my Substack profile.
Take a look at the other four Italy-focused Substackers who participated with me:

Giulia Scarpaleggia – substack.com /@julskitchen
Lolly Martyn – substack.com/@weeknightpastafromitaly
Eric Beall - Life Lived Italian – substack.com/@ericbeall
Jo Piro - Lake Garda Diaries – substack.com/@lakegardadiaries

Jo Piro was my inspiration for tomorrow’s Substack newsletter: Discover the Wines of Lake Garda + How to Visit Lake Garda’s Towns (& Wineries) by Ferry. I loved her tip that the best way to explore the vast Lake Garda is by ferry-hopping from one charming lakeside town to another.

The Valtènesi Lake Garda wine region, located in the southwestern part of Lake Garda, is home to some wonderful wineries. A few years ago, sommelier Cynthia Chaplin and I discussed the Valtènesi and one of its standout wineries, Conti Thun. Here’s a re-release of that episode:

Nestled on the western shores of Lake Garda, the Valtènesi wine region is an enchanting destination for wine lovers looking to discover something truly special. This area, with its stunning landscapes and rich winemaking history, remains relatively unknown outside of Italy, but that is changing—thanks to ambitious winemakers like Ilona Thun and her husband Vittorio Sommo, the dynamic duo behind Conti Thun Winery.

The Story Behind Conti Thun Winery

Ilona and Vittorio are passionate, young winemakers who have brought new energy to the Valtènesi Lake Garda region. They founded Conti Thun just a few years ago on the site of a historic farmhouse dating back to the 1800s. Ilona, a descendant of the famous Thun ceramics family, has infused the winery with her artistic vision and hospitality-driven approach, making it one of the most exciting wineries to visit in the area.

Their focus? Rosé wines made from two fascinating indigenous grape varieties—Groppello and Marzemino.

The History of Rosé in Valtènesi Lake Garda

Conti Thun Valtènesi Lake Garda Micaela rosé

While rosé wines are often associated with the Provence region of France, Valtènesi has been producing high-quality rosés for over 200 years. The winemaking tradition in this region can be traced back to a 19th-century farmer named Pompeo Malmenti, who first recognized the potential for rosé production in this unique terroir. Today, Ilona Thun is carrying that tradition forward with her elegant, structured rosé wines that challenge the perception of rosé as merely a summer drink.

The Unique Grapes of Valtènesi Lake Garda

The two key grapes of the region, Groppello and Marzemino, are almost exclusive to Valtènesi Lake Garda. These varieties contribute to the distinctive character of Conti Thun’s wines:

Groppello: This grape gives its name to the Italian word grappolo (meaning a cluster of grapes) because of its tightly packed bunches. It produces delicate, aromatic wines with bright acidity.
Marzemino: A dark-skinned, late-ripening grape that adds depth and structure to the rosés. It’s known for its tart, cranberry-like flavors rather than the soft sweetness often associated with rosé wines.

Together, these grapes create rosés that are more complex, structured, and food-friendly than many expect.

The Standout Wines of Conti Thun

Conti Thun produces several exceptional rosé wines, including:

Micaela: A delicate, pale pink rosé with floral and ripe berry aromas, designed to be enjoyed young. It’s also available as Bolle di Micaela, a sparkling version.
Rosa: A bold, age-worthy rosé that challenges expectations. Aged in cement tanks, it develops a minerally complexity that makes it suitable for fine dining and cellaring—an extremely rare trait in rosé wines.

To emphasize the seriousness and longevity of Rosa, Conti Thun bottles it in a heavy black glass bottle, which not only protects the wine from light exposure but also signals its premium quality.

A Winery Built on Hospitality

Beyond the wines, Conti Thun is a destination in itself. Ilona has transformed the historic farmhouse into a warm and inviting space where visitors can experience the best of Valtenesi (Lake Garda)’s food, wine, and natural beauty. The winery offers:

Daily aperitivo sessions, where visitors can relax with wine and local specialties.
Picnic experiences among the vines, perfect for those who want a more immersive experience.
Yoga in the vineyard, combining wellness with wine.
Family-friendly wine events, ensuring that all ages can enjoy the estate.

Conti Thun Valtènesi Lake Garda wine tasting

The long-term vision? Expanding their hospitality offerings, possibly with accommodation options, so that visitors can truly experience Valtenesi as a multi-day destination.

The Unique Terroir of Lake Garda

One of the reasons Valtenesi Lake Gardawines stand out is the geology and climate of Lake Garda. This region benefits from:

A mild, Mediterranean-like climate due to the temperature-regulating effect of the lake.
Mineral-rich moraine soils, left behind by ancient glaciers, which contribute to the wines’ freshness and salinity.
Significant day-night temperature shifts, helping grapes develop complex flavors while retaining crisp acidity.

This terroir ensures that Valtènesi Lake Garda rosés offer more structure, depth, and aging potential than typical rosés from other parts of the world.

Conti Thun Valtènesi Lake Garda winery visit

Beyond Wine: Olive Oil and Sustainability

In addition to wine, Conti Thun also produces high-quality olive oil, made from their own DOP Garda olives. Garda olive oil is prized for its delicate yet robust flavor and high smoke point, making it ideal for everything from fresh drizzling to cooking.

Sustainability is also at the heart of their philosophy—nothing goes to waste, and they even produce grappa from the leftover grape skins after winemaking.

Visiting Valtènesi Lake Garda: How to Get There

Valtènesi is easily accessible and makes for a great wine-focused trip in Northern Italy.

By train: The easiest way to reach the area is by taking a three-hour direct train from Rome to Verona. From Verona, a short local train ride will take you to Desenzano, the gateway to Lake Garda’s western shore.
By car: Renting a car allows for more flexibility to explore the region, as many of the wineries are best accessed by road.
By ferry: For those staying on the eastern side of Lake Garda, ferries connect to the western shore, making it possible to visit Conti Thun and other wineries without a car.

Nearby attractions include:

Verona, famous for its Roman amphitheater and Shakespearean history.
Bergamo, a beautiful medieval and Renaissance city.
Franciacorta, home to Italy’s top sparkling wines.

Can You Find Conti Thun Wines in the U.S.?

Currently, Conti Thun’s wines are available directly from the winery and on Italian online platforms. However, their export efforts are growing, and they may soon become more widely available internationally. For now, the best way to get your hands on these wines is to reach out to the winery directly to inquire about shipping or distributors in your area.

The Future of Valtènesi Lake Garda Wine

Ilona Thun is on a mission to elevate Valtènesi rosé onto the global fine wine stage. Unlike many Italian rosés, which are often produced as an afterthought for local consumption, Conti Thun’s wines are made with intention and vision. By embracing both tradition and innovation, Ilona is proving that Valtènesi rosé is not just a summer sipper—it’s a wine worthy of attention, respect, and a place at the finest tables.

Whether you’re a rosé enthusiast or just beginning to explore the hidden gems of Italian wine, Valtènesi Lake Garda is a region that deserves a spot on your list. And with wineries like Conti Thun leading the way, it won’t remain a secret for much longer.