Anchovies: The Tiny Fish Making Big Waves

A Conversation with Christopher Beckman, Author of A Twist in the Tail

If you think anchovies are just salty fillets for pizza or Caesar salad, it’s time to reconsider. These tiny fish pack a flavorful punch and carry a fascinating culinary history, as revealed in Christopher Beckman’s captivating book, A Twist in the Tail. I’ve been eager to interview Christopher for four years, and I’m thrilled to share our deep dive into the world of the anchovy with you.

A Personal Passion for the Anchovy

Christopher Beckman, an archaeologist from San Francisco, fell in love with them while living in Los Angeles during his twenties. Cooking on a tight budget, he discovered that a single anchovy could elevate a simple spaghetti dinner into something extraordinary.

The idea was planted by an Italian friend, Sergio Premoli, who revealed a trick: “Just add an anchovy to anything, and it makes it better.” Since then, Christopher’s love for them has only grown, culminating in his book, A Twist in the Tail, which explores the cultural, culinary, and historical significance of this tiny fish in Italy, Spain, France, the UK, and the USA.

Across Cultures

Christopher’s book takes readers on a journey through the Western world, exploring how different cultures embraced this tiny fish:

Italy: The Anchovy’s Eternal Home

Italy has loved anchovies since Roman times. They are ubiquitous in Italian cuisine, whether marinated in vinegar, tossed into pasta sauces, or blended with herbs and olive oil to create a savory spread. Italians value them for their ability to enhance flavors subtly or shine as the star ingredient.

France: From Haute Cuisine to Decline

Anchovies became a key ingredient in French haute cuisine in the 17th century, thanks to chefs like Pierre La Varenne, who incorporated them into luxurious butter and cream sauces. However, as French cuisine evolved under Escoffier, they fell out of favor in favor of heavier, butter-rich preparations.

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Spain: Late to the Game, but Passionate

Although Spain is synonymous with anchovy tapas today, it wasn’t until the 20th century that the Spanish embraced them. Now, Spanish bars proudly serve “boquerones” — fresh, marinated in vinegar — alongside those preserved in olive oil. The Cantabrian anchovy is renowned for its quality and sustainability.

UK: In Condiments

The British historically used anchovies to create iconic condiments like Worcestershire sauce and A1 Steak Sauce. These sauces subtly incorporate them to enhance umami, even if the ingredient isn’t immediately recognizable.

USA: Rediscovering the Anchovy

While they have struggled for acceptance in the United States, Christopher sees a shift. Upscale Italian restaurants and the availability of high-quality preserved anchovies from Italy and Spain are helping Americans develop a taste for these tiny fish.

Anchovy art — Photo credit Antonio_Sicurezza_-_Still_life_with_anchovies

Why You Should Love Them

Flavor Powerhouse

They are a natural umami bomb, capable of transforming dishes with just one or two fillets. They dissolve beautifully into sauces, soups, and sautés, enhancing the overall depth of flavor without overpowering the dish.

Sustainability

These tiny fish are one of the most sustainable seafood choices. Their short lifespans (3-4 years) mean they don’t accumulate harmful heavy metals like larger fish do. However, Christopher emphasizes the importance of sourcing them from well-managed fisheries.

Recommended Sustainable Options:

Cantabrian anchovies from Spain
Anchovies from the Adriatic Sea in Italy
Moroccan and Tunisian anchovies

Health Benefits

Anchovies are rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which support heart and brain health. They’re also packed with protein, calcium, and essential vitamins, making them a nutritional powerhouse.

Recipes to Try

Puntarelle Salad

A Roman classic, puntarelle (a type of chicory) is tossed with garlic, anchovies, olive oil, and vinegar. The anchovy-forward dressing enhances the crisp, bitter greens, creating a dish that converts even the most hardcore skeptics.

Spaghetti with Clam Sauce

I recommend adding one fillet to spaghetti with clam sauce. It intensifies the clam flavor, creating a richer, more satisfying dish.

Roasted Red Peppers with Anchovy Dressing

Roast red and yellow peppers until charred, peel, and slice them into strips. Dress with olive oil, capers, garlic, and anchovies for a vibrant, flavorful side dish.

Anchovy Butter

Blend them with softened butter for a savory spread perfect on bread, steaks, or roasted vegetables. This simple preparation has been cherished in French cuisine for centuries.

The Anchovy’s Future

Climate change poses challenges for anchovy populations, potentially altering their migratory patterns and availability. Overfishing also threatens some fisheries, underscoring the need for sustainable practices.

Despite these challenges, Christopher is optimistic. As more people discover the versatility and sustainability of anchovies, their culinary prominence will continue to grow.

Discovering them for Yourself

For those hesitant about anchovies, Christopher advises starting small. Use their paste or dissolve a single fillet into a tomato sauce or dressing. You’ll be amazed at how this tiny fish elevates your cooking.

To explore more, check out my curated Anchovy Collection - the Ultimate Umami Ingredient! featuring high-quality products and cookbooks to get you started. And don’t forget to grab a copy of Christopher Beckman’s book, A Twist in the Tail, which Nigella Lawson calls “a must-read for anchovy obsessives.”

Anchovies are more than a divisive topping; they’re a culinary treasure with a rich history and incredible umami flavor. Whether you’re a lifelong fan or new to the anchovy game, it’s time to embrace the tiny fish that makes a big impact.