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    January 5, 2019

    Rome's Fascinating Quartière Coppedé!

    The Quartière Coppedé, one of Rome's most fascinating neighborhoods, is just a short bus ride from the heart of Rome's city center, or less than a half hour's walk following along the Villa Borghese park towards Parioli.

    This often overlooked, but extremely beautiful and captivating quartière is named after the neighborhood's designer and architect, florentine Gino Coppedé. In 1919 Coppedé was given carte blanche to design the neighborhood of nearly twenty buildings, but unfortunately he died in 1927 before completion, and the project was then finished by Paolo Emilio André. Coppedé loved to use a lavish, spirited style infused with a touch of humor in his work. This neighborhood is thoroughly unlike any other you’ll encounter in Rome and absolutely merits a visit!

     

    Apartments in the buildings are large and lavish, now owned by both residents and businesses. It's almost impossible to find an available apartment to rent or buy and if you do the prices are exorbitant.
    The entire Coppedé neighborhood is worth exploring, but here are a few things you won’t want to miss.

    The main access to the quartière is from Via Tagliamento off Viale Regina Margherita, heading along Via Dora under a massive arch towards Piazza Mincio.

    Arch entryway to the Coppedé neighborhood along Via Dora
    Arch entryway to the Coppedé neighborhood along Via Dora

    Take your time to explore every detail along the way: the ceilings, chandeliers, fences, gardens and building facades. Each is abundant with a thrill of fun detail. Styles are a delightful mixture of Art Deco, Byzantine, Medieval and Classic. You'll find that certain decorative elements are recurrent, like bees.

    Bee theme in Quartière Coppedé, Rome
    Bee theme in Quartière Coppedé, Rome

    The wrought-iron gates and fences are filled with delightful decorative twists and turns.
    Just under the arch on Via Dora is a massive wrought iron chandelier you won’t want to miss. Also explore the ceiling detail around the chandelier.

    Walk along Via Dora until you reach Piazza Mincio where you’ll see the Fontana delle Rane (the Frog Fountain), built in 1924, right in the center of the square. It’s one of my favorite fountains: eight large frogs spitting water into a central basin.

    Frog fountain Piazza Mincio Coppedé neighborhood
    Frog fountain Piazza Mincio Coppedé neighborhood

    The Palazzo della Rana (Spider Palazzo) is at Piazza Mincio, 4. You’ll find a mixture of architectural styles in this five story building. Just above the entrance is a massive gold spider.

    Spider Palazzo Piazza Mincio Coppedé neighborhood
    Spider Palazzo Piazza Mincio Coppedé neighborhood

    More building detail as you look above the spider...

    Spider Palazzo Piazza Mincio Coppedé neighborhood
    Spider Palazzo Piazza Mincio Coppedé neighborhood

    As you stand in the entrance to the Spider Palazzo you can look out towards a lovely view of the Frog Fountain in Piazza Mincio.


    Have a question or want to leave your own tips and recommendations? Click here to leave a comment:

    6 Comments
    Frog fountain view from the Spider Palazzo, Quartière Coppedé
    Frog fountain view from the Spider Palazzo, Quartière Coppedé

    Looping around the piazza to Piazza Mincio, 3 are the Fairy Cottages, my favorite in the Coppedé neighborhood.

    Fairy Cottages Piazza Mincio Coppedé neighborhood
    Fairy Cottages Piazza Mincio Coppedé neighborhood

    Every detail is worth catching, from the fences and gates with their seahorse design,

    Seahorse design in Fairy Cottages gate, Quartière Coppedé
    Seahorse design in Fairy Cottages gate, Quartière Coppedé

    to the plants in the garden around the cottages, to the exquisite detail you'll find on the Fairy Cottages facade.

    Fairy Cottages fresco and design details, Quartière Coppedé
    Fairy Cottages fresco and design details, Quartière Coppedé

    Make sure you look at all of the Fairy Cottages which loop around onto Via Brenta and Via Aterno.

    Gino Coppedé has decorated and frescoed the Fairy Cottages using many concepts and styles.

    You’ll find a tribute to Gino Coppedé's home town Florence with frescoes of both the Duomo and the Palazzo della Signoria. There's also a wonderful fresco of a ship at sea.

    Fairy Cottages fresco and design details, Quartière Coppedé
    airy Cottages fresco and design details, Quartière Coppedé

    Continue looping around the piazza to Piazza Mincio, 2 (just opposite the Spider Palazzo) where you'll find a beautifully designed, black and white themed entranceway. Note the exquisite archways and ceiling design.

    Piazza Mincio, 2 with beautifully designed, black and white themed entranceway.
    Piazza Mincio, 2 with beautifully designed, black and white themed entranceway.

    Just as you enter the palazzo you'll read, looping across the entryway, the lettering Ospes Salve, latin wording for welcome. This palazzo, like all in the neighborhood, is unfortunately privately owned so it's only possible to enjoy its entranceway and facade.

    Make sure you branch out throughout the Quartière Coppedé to find more of Coppedé’s work at Via Brenta 14 and 16, Via Ombrone 8-10 and 11, Via Serchio 2, Via Olana 7. There are a number of embassies in this neighborhood including South Africa, Poland, Marocco, Republic of the Congo. One of Rome's better known high schools, Liceo Scientifico Amedeo Avogadro, can be found on Via Brenta.
    After your visit to the Coppedé neighborhood, which should take you a few hours to half a day, you might want to have a coffee and a pastry. Be sure to try the Pasticceria Duranti Valter, just a short walk away to Viale Regina Margherita, 25. They're opened every day but Wednesday.

    Pasticceria Duranti Valter, Viale Regina Margherita 25, Rome
    Pasticceria Duranti Valter, Viale Regina Margherita 25, Rome

    And if you feel like lunch I'd strongly recommend one of these great restaurants, all within walking distance from the Quartière Coppedé:

    Il Caminetto, Viale Parioli, 89. (twenty-four minute walk) Reservations strongly recommended, great food, extremely popular and very Roman (it's been packed every night for thirty years).

    Il Cigno, Viale Parioli, 16 A/B. Tel: 06-808-2348 (fifteen minute walk) This is actually a pastry shop, cum coffee bar and lunch spot. It's fabulous and  one of my favorites. Great gelato too.

    Al Ceppo, Via Panama, 2. (fourteen minute walk) Fabulous restaurant, refined, reservations recommended.

    Pescheria Rossini and Taverna Rossini, Viale Gioacchino Rossini, 48 and 54 respectively. (fourteen minute walk) Same owners and next to each other. Pescheria Rossini is mostly seafood and higher end, Taverna Rossini more casual, with a full Roman menu including pizza.

    How to reach the Quartière Coppedé:

    Walking:
    A 22 minute walk: Follow along the Villa Borghese Park on Via Pinciana for about 700 meters, turn right onto Via Giovanni Sgambati for 70 meters, and left onto Via Pò for 750 meters. Via Pò then changes name to Via Tagliamento, and after a short distance (80 meters) you will reach Via Dora. Just 110 meters along you'll arrive at the beginning of the Coppedé neighborhood.

    By bus:
    From Piazza Barberini you can take either a #63 or #83 bus; otherwise a #80 bus plus a seven minute walk.

    From Piazzale Flaminio take an #89 bus and walk six minutes; otherwise walk seven minutes, then take the tram #19.

    And of course a taxi is always an easy option.

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    Reader Interactions

    Comments

    1. Susan La Bella says

      January 17, 2023 at 3:57 pm

      A friend told me about it! What a fun place to explore! So unique and unexpected in the middle of Rome!

      Reply
      • Wendy says

        February 12, 2023 at 3:16 pm

        When you visit Rome we can go here together!

        Reply
    2. Karen Herschell says

      January 16, 2017 at 8:01 am

      I lived in this neighborhood and my dentist was in one of the fancy via Dora buildings, at the top. It was great to go there and look out of his window. There were so many little fanciful details at the top of buildings there that you don't see from the ground!

      Reply
    3. Arlene Gibbs Décor says

      January 15, 2017 at 4:05 am

      Great post.

      Love this neighborhood. My doctor's office is in that building with the chandelier. I don't mind visiting!

      Reply
    4. Wessel says

      January 14, 2017 at 12:23 pm

      What a great article about a mostly forgotten part by tourists! We will share it for sure.

      Cordiale saluti,

      Coen

      Reply
      • Wendy says

        January 15, 2017 at 4:33 am

        Thank you Coen; it's one of my favorite areas that I visit regularly!

        Reply

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    I’m American and I’ve lived in Italy for nearly four decades with my Italian family. My passion and strength lies in sharing Italian stories, recipes and unique travel insights on my blog, my Flavor of Italy trips and tours, newsletter and podcast. Continue Reading...

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